Feed on
Posts
Comments

Arif Ali–GUYANA

“The legend of El Dorado pales in comparison to the reality of Guyana’s resources.”

Long thought to have been the source of the El Dorado legend, and home of what was once the largest open-pit gold mine in South America, Guyana is quickly becoming a pioneer in wildlife conservation and ecotourism in South America. Birding trips near the capital of Georgetown can lead to the sighting of more than 50 varieties of birds in just an hour or two. The Kanuku Mountain sanctuary, inland, is home to more than three hundred fifty bird species, and the country as a whole is home to over eight hundred bird species. Well over two hundred mammal species, many of them unique, populate the three climate zones–forest, savannah, and coastal.

To prevent the loss of habitats for these birds and mammals, some areas of the country are now under government protection, especially in the Kanuku Mountains and in the northernmost beach areas which serve as breeding grounds for several rare turtle species.

One of the reasons that ecotourism is being promoted is that Guyana, unlike Venezuela and other Caribbean-facing countries, has no white sand beaches, eliminating the possibility of large-scale beach resort development, though its placid rivers and rich flora and fauna have recently made it a fascinating cruising destination for small boat owners. Its nearly three hundred unique flowering plants and over five hundred species of orchids are unparalleled in beauty.

Aquaculture in Guyana

First inhabited twelve thousand years ago by people who arrived from Mongolia, Guyana became the home of their descendants, the Amerindians, a culture which remained intact until the arrival of Spanish explorers in the sixteenth century, followed by African slaves brought in to work in the sugar industry, and later the Portuguese, French, Indian, Chinese, Dutch, and British colonizers and settlers, all of whom contributed to a melting pot culture. Independent from the British since 1966, Guyana is the only English-speaking country in South America, “a land of contradictions and superlatives” boasting, among other features, the tallest wooden building in the world, the highest single-drop waterfall, the world’s largest freshwater fish, the largest undeveloped rainforest left in the world, the world’s largest spider–a bird-eating spider with an eleven inch leg span–and the world’s largest bat–with a one-meter wing span!

Birding trips can take ornithologists into the interior to places like Kaieteur Falls

Gorgeous photographs accompany the fascinating history of Guyana in this well-written text, which dramatically illustrates the country’s potential for growth, along with its need for better infrastructure. The country has some problems in and around the cities with unemployment, underemployment, and the underdevelopment of major industries there, and the government recognizes these need to be addressed. In the countryside, however, agriculture is already a major industry, and freshwater aquaculture and ecotourism could become major industries there. The Guyanese people, are energetic, culturally diverse, and forward-thinking, and they are already making strides toward protecting their immense natural resources and preserving the environment, while still developing viable and self-sustaining industries that benefit the entire nation. Hats off to Guyana!

Notes: The author’s photo appears on http://www.stabroeknews.com

Aquaculture culture in Guyana:  http://farmertofarmer.blogspot.com

Birding trips can take ornithologists into the interior to places like Kaieteur Falls: http://homepage.mac.com

Guyana
REVIEW. Exploration, Guyana, Non-fiction
Written by: Arif Ali
Published by: Hansib Publications Limited
Date Published: 04/09/2008
Edition: 2nd Edition
ISBN: 978-1906190101
Available in: Hardcover

“The unbelievable that came true stayed with me, and I believed in the unbelievable, in the star that had followed me through life, and with its gleam constantly before my eyes I began to believe in it more and more…Now that I had been brought to my knees, I realized that my star was brighter than ever, that only now would I be able to see its true brightness, because my eyes had been weakened by everything I had lived through, weakened so that they could see more and know more.”–Ditie, near the end of his life.

Czech author Bohumil Hrabal, often at odds with the government of Czechoslovakia during the 1970s and 1980s, first published this tragicomic novel as a typescript in 1979, and later in book form in 1983.  Hrabal and fellow-members of the Jazz Section of the Czech Musicians’ Union distributed it secretly for two years before many were arrested and sentenced to jail for their efforts.  Hardly what modern readers would consider subversive or dangerous, the novel is a first-person account by Ditie, who begins his story as a teenage busboy at a rural hotel, progresses to waiter, and eventually to successful hotel owner.  It gives nothing away (and the book cover itself includes this summary) to say that when the Czech government falls to communism, Ditie ends up working the roads in a mountain village.

The picaresque plot is the least important aspect of the book, since it is merely the framework for a series of often hilarious stories about the people he works with, the lives they have led, the values they maintain, their hopes for the future, and the sometimes large chasm between their dreams and reality.  Set in rural hotels, at camps in the Czech mountains during the German occupation during World War II, and in Prague, where Ditie served, not the King of England, but the Emperor of Ethiopia, Haile Selassie, the novel literally ends at the “end of the road,” where Ditie resides with his horse, goat, and cat.  There, he lives on his memories, at peace with his fate—keeping the road to nowhere open for traffic, which never comes.  Wanting to leave behind a record of his life, he spends his evening hours writing his autobiography, which becomes this book.

Ditie is a delightful story-teller, using the casual, almost innocent language of a young boy at the beginning and becoming philosophical and contemplative by the end.  Hrabal’s sensitivity to small details and his accurate depiction of real people responding to real situations in sometimes odd and often darkly humorous ways make this sometimes satiric novel a delight to read.

Ditie’s ribald and rowdy descriptions of his own sexual awakening and stories of how the customers at the various hotels cultivate female companionship give energy and humor to the beginning of the novel, but Ditie maintains his dignity when he describes the important people with whom he comes into contact—the highly esteemed headwaiter who “served the King of England,”  but mentors him; the President of the Czechoslovakia during his stay at the hotel; and eventually Haile Selassie, Emperor of Ethiopia, for whom Ditie is personal waiter when he comes to the Hotel Tichota.  The jealousies of his fellow-workers and their back-stabbing behavior sometimes force Ditie to seek new employment, but he is resilient, and he has the support of one of his earliest customers, who helps him to find new work when the times demand it.

The novel takes a new, darker turn, when Ditie, labeled a German sympathizer for his relationship with the German woman he later marries, leaves Prague to live in the mountains at a breeding station the Germans have established to develop a “refined race of humans.”  Lise, his wife, becomes commander of the nursing corps and travels widely, while Ditie remains behind.  When Lise returns from Warsaw with a small suitcase full of valuable stamps, confiscated from the Jews, they both know that their financial futures are secure.

Eventually, Ditie must come face to face with his life, and he does so with a fatalism that is also full of grace.  The reader may have a hard time believing that anyone could start so low, reach such heights, and then fall lower than he was at the beginning of his life–and still be grateful for the opportunity to learn from these experiences–but Ditie is relatively content.  He has opened his mind, and he knows what is important, despite his harsh living conditions.  All he wants is to leave behind a record.  After all, he “served the Emperor of Ethiopia,” and that is important.

By turns hilarious and poignant, satiric and sensitive, the novel depicts many aspects of Czech society and culture, but it is, above all, the story of Ditie, in many ways an everyman.  With symbolism throughout, and a repeating character, Zdenek, the headwaiter who “served the King of England,” who appears at every crossroads in Ditie’s life, the novel is more than a comic romp.  A record of a time, place, and culture, it is also Ditie’s meditation on his life and his role, if any, in the wider world.

Released as a major film by Academy Award-winning Czech director Jiri Menzel, who also directed the film of Bohumil Hrabal’s Closely Watched Trains, this novel deserves to find a wide, long-overdue audience.

ALSO by Bohumil Hrabal: HARLEQUIN’S MILLIONS

Photos, in order: The author’s photo appears on http://opocno-city.opocno.cz

The photo for King Haile Selasse appears on http://harowo.com

The poster for the film version of this novel appears on http://www.imdb.com

“What happens in the Galapagos is determined now by who has more money.”

In the “pristine” environment of the Galápagos, unique animals have no fear of man because they have never been exposed to the depredations of man. Ancient tortoises, sea lions, rare birds, and iguanas willingly share their lives with tourists, swim with them, or “pose” for photos. Galapagos life–in the tourist brochures, at least–resembles the Eden found by Charles Darwin in 1831.

While these images may have been true forty years ago, when small tour boats brought the first tourist-adventurers to the islands, they are far from true now, according to Michael D’Orso, who made a number of visits and spent many weeks on the islands from 1999 – 2002. Located 600 miles from Ecuador, which both claims and governs them, the islands have experienced devastating changes in the past ten years, and some real crises in the past three years. Here D’Orso comments on the crises he’s observed, all of which threaten the very existence of this priceless biological resource and natural laboratory.

D’Orso befriends and interviews several astute and eccentric long-time residents of the islands, who serve as first person commentators and give him insight into the islands’ history, explaining how they have changed, and commenting on the ecological disasters now unfolding, to their own horror. Though 97% of the island has been a National Park since 1959, 3% was ceded to the early residents, many of them immigrants from Norway and Germany, who have remained there with their families and lived in tune with the unique resource which they inhabit. In recent years, however, the handful of families which have lived there for generations have been inundated by 20,000 newer immigrants, mainly economic refugees from the Ecuadorian mainland, all wanting a piece of the tourism pie and not caring what they have to do to get it.

In clear and unambiguous prose, which he sometimes wields like a truncheon, D’Orso excoriates corrupt local officials, judges, and members of the national government who have vested interests in subverting environmental protections because of their financial interests in the oil, fishing, boating, and tourism industries. The government, he says, is “so horrifically convoluted and corrupt that onlookers have taken to calling this country ‘Absurdistan.'”

The introduction of non-native animal species (rats, feral dogs and cats, pigs, goats, and burros), along with foreign insect life (wasps, roaches, and fire ants), and foreign plants (blackberry, lantana, and wild guava bushes) have already permanently changed the environment on which much of the Galapagos wildlife depends, and some formerly lush areas are now denuded. The wanton flouting of fishing regulations, both by the new immigrants and by the government, and the failure of the authorities to prosecute violators have led to the continued harvesting of sea cucumbers and other marine life, willy-nilly, while fishing boats with long-lines up to 75 miles long continue to hook and kill protected species. Leaky, never inspected oil tankers, sometimes owned by highly placed officials, carry petroleum to the islands, and the first major oil spill has already occurred. Many of these tankers, like the one responsible for the recent leak, carry bunker fuel, almost raw petroleum, which is so heavy that it sinks to the bottom before it can be contained, leaving the oil and the permanent damage from this latest spill underwater, unable to be calculated.

Jack Nelson, U.S. Consulate warden, whose family was one of the earliest to settle in the islands, tells D’Orso that it’s not the tourists who are the problem. It’s the people and businesses that “have flocked to the islands in pursuit of the dollars washing off those tour boats [that] are the agents of destruction.” These people have resorted to violence. So determined is the most recent batch of immigrants to undermine environmental control that they have brought in thugs, “lobster mobsters,” to help them gain a freer hand to mine the marine riches of the islands. Recently, these men physically destroyed the National Park and Darwin Station offices, along with the homes of the employees, even ripping out the toilets. The government’s response? Extending the fishing season, as the protesters demanded.

With the fall-off in tourism as a result of September 11, the economy of the Galapagos is now feeling significant economic effects. The demands to reduce the environmental regulations even further are getting louder, as the “cash cow” of tourism seems to be vanishing, and the current Ecuadorian President seems to be listening to the demands to relax controls even more.

D’Orso is passionate in his desire to awaken the world community to the disaster he has seen before the islands have been totally destroyed. His book is timely, and his data seems reliable, though often anecdotal. His forecast is bleak, but his message, and his book, are strong. Those who have dreamed of walking in the footsteps of Charles Darwin in a pristine environment untrammeled by man may find that they have already missed their chance.

Notes: The author’s photo by Genevieve Ross is from http://en.wikipedia.org

A cruise ship with five hundred passengers landed its passengers at the Galapagos in 2007, inspiring Ecuador’s President Rafael Correa to declare the ecosystem now “at risk.”  Good article and photo here:  http://www.guardian.co.uk

An estimated 15,000 marine iguanas were killed in the oil spill in the Galapagos in 2007.  See photo.  http://greenrage.wordpress.com

An oil-covered Galapagos sea lion is shown on http://reliableanswers.com

“It was 1822. All over the globe civilization was advancing; things were being transformed, unearthed, transplanted….Wattle and eucalypts from Australia, jacaranda from the Argentine, and bougainvillea from Brazil. The living world was rearranged.”

“Natives” and “exotics,” terms often used to describe the relationship of plants to their environments, also refers, in this novel, to the characters who populate it, since all of the main characters live in foreign environments which have their own native populations. The Forder family, in the first of three major story lines, is on assignment in Ecuador in 1970, where the father works for the US State Department. Rosalind Forder, the mother, and Alice, her daughter, are doubly displaced since they are originally from Australia.

In the second section, which takes place in 1929, Violet Clarence (Rosalind’s mother) is living in the bush in Australia, having joyfully given up a career as a teacher in order to marry Alf and help clear the land to build a home in the bush. Because her family came from England in the distant past, she has always regarded England as “home.” Part III follows a distant relative, a Mr. Clarence, who in 1822 lives in Scotland, though he is not Scottish. He and his foster son George emigrate to St. Michael in the Portuguese Azores after their land is seized by the British factor.

In each of these three story lines, the “exotic,” foreign residents permanently affect the environments in which they live—Mr. Forder by manipulating the fluid Ecuadorian political system so that American tuna companies can reap record harvests in Ecuadorian waters and so that an oil pipeline can be constructed through “useless” jungle; Violet and her husband through their work clearing land for farming and sheepherding; and Mr. Clarence and George through their importation to the Azores of exotic plants and new kinds of orange trees from other parts of the world.

Alison clearly believes that despoiling a natural environment by removing or adding new plants and/or animals is both dangerous and foolish, no matter how honorable the motives might be, and she is even clearer on the subject of colonialism, both the old colonialism of the British Empire and what she considers the more recent colonialism of the US. Hal Forder’s notion that “[Development in Ecuador] is not a matter of right…it’s a matter of responsibility,” is shown to have permanent, ineradicable effects, both on the natural environment and on the local people who inhabit it.

Alison is first and foremost a novelist telling a good story, however, and she does not become polemical, softening her message through the love that some of the characters feel for the environment and through sensuous, lyrical passages of immense beauty. Young Alice loves the natural world in Ecuador—”She felt opened up and seared…all at once she was ripped open; all that light and color poured into her. It could not be encompassed by words such as love or like; it was moving and growing and green and live, even the ground smoking, steaming.”

Her descriptions of geological processes and eras are so vivid the reader is transported to a different world, making the contrasts effected by civilization more strongly felt—”Far away, in the jungle or near the coastal plains, tropical trees were being cut down to make room for the [Pan-American] highway and pipeline, and soil that was loosened by the removal of roots began to slide, great mud slides that covered villages completely so that you wouldn’t know anything had ever been there. Just as living things had once been covered by silt and over millions of years transformed, but now rose again, bubbled up warm and sometimes flaming, pure vaporous energy, inanimate life.”

A powerfully descriptive book with a theme of particular relevance today, Natives and Exotics is a memorable novel with believable characters who often try and equally often fail to do what is right. Her displaced characters and their difficulties in adapting to their lives humanize her themes, broaden her scope, and put man into a geological perspective—as a relatively new but dangerous species which, nevertheless, has the capacity to learn from experience.

Notes: The author’s photo is part of her Amazon Author page.

The jacaranda tree, native of Argentina, has been imported successfully intoHawaii, in which it is an “exotic”: http://www.panoramio.com (Photo by Eric Rolph)

Bougainvilleas, native to Brazil, are seen in the next photo growing “exotically” in Greece:  http://www.skopelos.net

Eucalyptus, native to Australia, can be seen growing as an “exotic” at Hiroshima Castle in Japan.  This particular tree is said to be over a hundred years old, having withstood the atomic bombing and numerous typhoons.  http://www.lang-arts.com

“The decimated regiment of Muslims and Croats stumbled through a field of bomb craters. Water filled the craters, out of which rough-skinned gray frogs leaped like beating hearts that had deserted the bodies of warring men and now roamed the doomed landscape. Ivan found the sudden leaps of so many hearts out of the gray earth unsettling. He could not see any of them until they were in the air, so it seemed to him that the earth was spitting up useless hearts and swallowing them back into the mud.”

Croatian author Josip Novakovich crafts a novel here which bursts the bounds of genre. Both naturalistic in its depiction of the Yugoslavian war and its atrocities, and fantastic and darkly absurd in its depiction of the life of main character Ivan Dolinar, the novel seesaws between the horrific and the hilarious. Surprising in his ability to wrest unique images from universal experiences, Novakovich writes with such clarity and directness that the reader immediately identifies with Ivan in his predicaments and empathizes with him as uncontrollable forces buffet him throughout his life.

Born, appropriately, on April Fool’s Day, 1948, Ivan and his family fear the post-war Russian army, and when President Tito stands up to the Russian tanks and gets them to withdraw, he is lionized by the populace, even though his less than stellar war record has had to be “sanitized.” Ivan, fatherless, is taken under the wing of a Communist sculptor/art teacher when he is in elementary school, and he comes alive for the reader through the author’s recognition of the universal qualities of children—their mischief, their desire to please, their wanting to fit in, their mockery of those who are different. In many ways Ivan is like a child-Everyman, albeit one with a Croatian upbringing, and this is one of the reasons the novel is so effective in creating reader identification.

At nineteen, he passes the exams for medical school and moves from Nizograd to Novi Sad for his studies. There he forms fast friendships with other students, all equally disinterested in hygiene and housekeeping, tries to fall in love, and does well in anatomy—until one of his roommates starts joking with him about assassinating Marshall Tito, a conversation which is overheard.

The absurdity of his life in Croatia increases over time as Ivan becomes more and more a prisoner of the political system under which he is forced to live. Arguments about the desire of Croat politicians to secede from the Yugoslav federation, about the role of government, about religion, and about the future of the country pervade the novel, and after the Croatian Spring Uprising is put down and the secessionist politicians are jailed, the country is thrown into even more turmoil by the death of Marshall Tito. When the unrest grows, Ivan, a Croat, is drafted into the Yugoslav army and, absurdly, sent to Croatia to fight the Croatian army, only to be captured by the Croats and forced to fight the Serbs until his unit surrenders to the Yugoslav Army which had drafted him in the first place. Forced to make a 100-mile march, the end of which would be freedom for anyone who survived, Ivan observes atrocities beyond his imaginings.

In the second half, his eventual marriage, fatherhood, employment, and decision to engage in “preemptive adultery” lead to further absurdities (and some long-standing enmities) as he ages into his fifties. Having studied philosophy,  Ivan continues to look for meaning in life throughout his adulthood. Often engaging in his own religious debates, he searches for “a chance to think something essential,” something which would “give him the sensation of being alive.”

The conclusion is a blockbuster, sixty pages of the most absurd, farcical, and hilariously ironic writing in recent memory, a section which comes close to slapstick at the same time that it is indescribably bleak. Mining the emotions of both comedy and tragedy, the ending transcends the boundaries of realism. Novakovich has written a testament to the absurd, creating a satire/farce using a main character whose wasted life comes as close to tragedy as anything the Greeks could have imagined.

Notes: The photo of the author appears on http://www.ekf.bg, the site of the Foundation for Creative Writing, established by Elizabeth Kostove (author of The Historian).

A communist revolutionary, Marshal Josip Broz Tito commanded the Yugoslav People’s Army from 1943 – 1980 and became a hero to the populace after the defeat of the axis powers.  He was elected leader of an independent communist state.  http://en.wikipedia.org

« Newer Posts - Older Posts »